Tuesday, October 21, 2008

So back to Prague Castle. At both entrances to the Castle stand two Czech regulars in full dress uniform. These fine young men stand at attention for an hour while at their post and are relieved at the top of the hour. The noon changing of the guard includes an impressive fanfare. We found out about the fanfare about noon yesterday, much too late to get a view of it. So today, we made a point of getting to the main courtyard about 11:30 and found a spot, front row center, on the rope line. A few minutes before noon, a row of second floor windows opened above the courtyard and musicians appeared in the windows: several trumpets, a snare, and some other brass. At noon sharp, the music began and from up on the hill three ranks of regulars came marching down the hill. It was an impressive ceremony, although the precision was not quite what we have seen in the US with the changing of the guard at the Tombs of the Unknowns or of our fine military units on parade.

After hitting some of the spots we had missed yesterday at the Castle, we wandered up the hill a bit in search of sustenance and the Loretto. The Loretto was closed for lunch so we headed back down to find a place to eat. We stopped at a restaurant that was 75% beer hall and 25% restaurant. We were attracted to the place by two things: cinnamon pastries being browned on a spit and a large vessel of hot wine.

Yes, hot wine. David had to try it, of course, and it is fantastic. Hot wine, Czech style, is not too distant a cousin from hot apple cider. The base, of course, is red wine, but it is also spiced and served with sugar on the side for those who prefer. The sugar does perk it up a bit. Hot wine is a wonderful treat on a chilly Czech day (make that several chilly Czech days).

Lunch was served by Petr. His English was not particularly good but we communicated well enough. He recommended I have the roasted goose with cabbage and dumplings. Petr said I could lop of his head if the goose was not good. Czech food is unpretentious—not unlike good, Southern home cooking in the US—no fancy sauces or flowery presentation, just good solid food. Judy opted for a steak served with potatoes and cabbage. The goose was quite good. The dumplings are hard to describe: kind of like a round slice of heavy bread, firm and a bit spongy, with not a lot of taste. The first Spanish contact of the day happened here, with us a mere observers. A family came into the restaurant and Petr asked where they were from. “Barcelona” was the answer. Petr said, “Ah, Español.” The lady responded, “No, Barcelona.” Petr then said, “Ah, Catalan.” “Yes,” said the lady, “Barcelona.” The second mini-adventure with Spaniards, er, uhm, people from that general area, came later.

After lunch we headed back for the Loretto. The story here is fantastic (you define fantastic for yourself). Mary was at home the night Gabriel came to tell her she would be the mother of the Savior. The house she was in at the time stood until where it was until 1278, at which time vandals, heathens, infidels, and other assorted ne’er do wells threatened the home. In order to protect this important house, angels descended and carried the house to the Italian town of Loretto. Devoted believers, realizing the perpetual danger to this sacred home, began making full-sized copies of it. One such home, The Loretto by name, is in Prague just west of Prague Castle. The facility does not have much of a footprint, perhaps 75 meters square. The house in the center of the courtyard is much smaller. The compound includes a small church and several memorial chapels. The house, as well as the rest of the Loretto, is embellished with all manner of sculptures, frescoes, fountains, statues, and other beaded and jeweled niceties. Upstairs, under heavy guard and behind very thick steel doors, is the Loretto Treasury. Many priceless pieces are here, including the Loretto Ostensory. This is a gold piece covered with jewels which serves as a holder for the Host at Mass. I have not looked this up yet, but certainly this word is related to the word “ostentatious,” for so it is (or not, depending on one’s tastes). There are no pictures to share of the Loretto for photos are not allowed. A few outside views will be posted.

While in the Loretto ticket line a funny thing happened with some Spaniards (the second Spanish adventure of the day. I (David) have been trying to learn German in preparation for this trip. Once boarding Austrian Airlines for the trip over I realized I knew nothing. The last I studied Spanish was over 30 years ago when taking Spanish 202 from the often drunk Spanish Prof (can’t recall his name right now. Help, Terrell?). This group of eight Spanish adults was in queue asking the ticket agent for the family plan, a plan which requires two adults and two children. One man pointed at a decidedly 50-something lady and said “Niña.” I chucked. He asked, “¿Hablas Español?” I said, “Poco” and made the appropriate gesture with thumb and forefinger close together. He then said (translating here), that the lady he had pointed to was 17 and he was 27. I told him (in perfect Spanish, really), that he was 26 and I was 23. We all laughed some more. So here I was in the Czech Republic on a trip where I had wanted to speak German and ended up having my best conversation in Spanish. Too strange!

Following our visit to the Loretto, we wandered again the grounds of Prague Castle to revisit some wonderful sites. Late in the day, the setting sun blazing through centuries-old stained glass cast beautiful colors on the interior walls of St. Vitus’.

This was another day of much walking. We have determined that should we take another trip like this, we will have pedometers so we know for sure how far we are walking. Our estimate so far is about 5 miles per day. Easy.